We walked about 19 kilometers today to the small town of Villafranca. We walked though magical oak and pine woods, up and over 3 "mountains" - at this point, they really seem quite easy to walk up and over. There was one point when we questioned which way to go, and we chose to stay on the gravel road which took us down to a very old "ermitage" church by the busy road. It was very unclear how to proceed from there - Sharon went up and I followed guidance first to pee and then to go back down and ask for help. I first asked a Spanish man who didn't know anything, and then asked an older couple who had been picnicking at the ermitage. I saw their French license plates and so asked in French if they knew which way was the Camino al contrairio. The man asked me if I was from Colorado! I was so surprised by the question, and then he said that he was one of the French "chanseurs" - singers. Of course, we met him several days ago just outside of Boadilla, when he and two other women were lying down enjoying the sunshine on a slope off the path. We started talking to them, and found out that they walk sections of the Camino each year and sing Visigoth and some other influence songs in the cathedrals and churches as they walk. They said that so many of the Spanish churches are closed, whereas the French churches are always open. From our request, they then sang us the most beautiful, ancient song. I was so moved by their singing, the music, and their generosity to sing for us. My heart opened, and I knew that we had been sung to by the angels.
To meet two of them again today was truly a gift of serendipity. I knew that was why I was guided to go back down. We hugged and laughed, rejoicing in our connection through the Camino. I walked up the steep hill to meet Sharon (who had come part way back down to tell me that it was the correct way) with such love in my heart and a lightness in my feet and body. I was overjoyed at seeing them again. It felt like magic and another one of my Camino miracles.
I fully expected that we would stay in Villafranca tonight. We had heard about a wonderful albergue that was at the back of a very expensive hotel. The owner walked the Camino years ago and created the albergue as a way to give back to the Camino and to support the pilgrims.
The owner's son was standing at the door and welcomed us in with his delightful English. Turns out that he had lived in Kentucky and Michigan for a year working in the auto industry. Because he spoke English, we could more easily ask him questions about buses. One thing led to another, and after a delicious meal in a wonderful dining room, we found ourselves on a bus, not just to Belagrado but to Logrono, 80 kilometers away.
We have been looking at how far we have to walk and how many days we have to walk, given that we have become very clear that we need to head home much sooner than the original 7 weeks. Since Tami and Amy left yesterday, we have been exploring how to walk to Ste. Jean by Sunday, October 31st,and preferably even Saturday the 30th. Part of this is because the church I want to see in Toulouse is only open on Saturday late afternoons and Sunday mornings, when it is open for mass. It would be so wonderful if we could get to Toulouse Saturday evening and then have the day in Toulouse on Sunday. Plus, then we could fly home the following weekend after several days in southern France, exploring the auspicious sites connected to the Mary's, and three days in Paris, which will include a day trip to Chartres.
To meet this new timetable, we have had to give up some days walking, give up walking the Camino Aragones and the Via Toulasana to Toulouse, and even give up walking about 100 kilometers of the eastern section of the Camino Frances. In some ways, this has been challenging for me to do because of my expectations of walking the entire way to Toulouse, and certainly not skipping entire sections.
This Camino has offered many opportunities for me to choose to remain attached to an idea or listen to, honor, and allow the Camino to guide and provide. The lesson I have been learning is to ask not "what do I have to give up?" but to ask "what do I have to gain?" Every time I choose to allow, I flow with the magic of the Camino and the path unfolds with love, grace, ease and joy.
So, in my allowing the Camino to guide and provide, I am now in Los Arcos, and get to walk for the next 6 or 7 days without getting in a taxi or bus. I just get to walk and to complete this leg of the journey with my own two feet, and experience the magic of simply being a pilgrim who walks because the path is there, and calls on me to walk it.
This year I will go to Toulouse by train. My intention is to still walk the Celtic Camino one stage at a time, and it may take longer than I originally thought it would. We will see. I trust that the Camino will continue to guide and provide every step of the way. I just have to get out of the way and allow the magic to flow.
Buen Camino!
Suseya,
Sarah
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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