Today I walked on a new path for the first time. By this I mean that we came to the Albergue Brazil where I started my Camino a year ago. We came down the rest of the mountain first thing this morning, and stopped by the Albergue Brazil to say hello from Sue Kenney to the owners of the albergue. At this point, the sun came out and I could feel that I was stepping into something new and unknown. I was no longer in Galicia, I was down off the Cebreiro mountain, there were no longer the familiar Galician Camino kilometer markers, the yellow arrows became fewer and fewer, and I had not walked the Valcarce Valley before.
Also, Chris, a pergrina from Victoria, B.C., shared a story with me that she had met a woman who walked the Camino each day for a different person. I loved this idea, so today walked the Camino for my family. With every step I walked, I walked for my children and my husband.
The 13 or so kilometers from Vega del Valcarce to Villafranca are mostly on an asphalt road. The valley is steep and narrow, carved out by the beautiful rambling Rio Valcarce. There was not room for path and road, so the peregrinos share the road with the cars. There is, however, a highway, or autovia as it is called in Spain. It is a new road that is often propped up by large concrete pillars where the highway crosses over the valley high above the valley floor. There are also areas where the sides of the mountains have been carved away to make room for the road. The blessing is that the lower road is now much quieter without all of the trucks and traffic. The downside is man´s attacking nature to make way for such a road.
It took Sharon and I about 4 hours to walk down the valley and into Villafranca. We still have not had a day without rain. This time we could feel the clouds becoming heavy, so had all of rain gear on and ready for when the rains came. We actually welcomed the rains as our friend. We now know it well, and it gives us a quiet, meditative time to walk. Sometimes I think that I actually prefer it to the hot sun.
This day seemed to hold magical qualities. The sound of the river as it rolled down the valley was soothing as my feet could rarely find the soft earth. We walked on asphalt most of the time, separated from the main road by concrete barriers. The town of Tribaldo came just when I needed a lunch break. I say "I" because Sharon eats very differently from me. At the beginning of the Camino, I tried to match my meals and eating habits to match hers. This was not a good idea. I do much better when I eat real food and enjoy the local cuisine. For some reason, I can eat wheat when I walking the Camino, and I enjoy the "boccolino" sandwiches - fresh hunks of bread with cheese and ham. Nothing like I would eat at home, but when I am walking hours each day, I love to really eat. Also, my other treat has become to drink a Coca-Cola - something else I never do at home but so appreciate when I am walking!
The highlight of today was seeing a man in a kilt approaching me about 4 or so kilometers from Villafranca. We talked for a short while. His name is David, and this is the second time he is walking the Camino this year! He was so high from the first time he wanted to walk it again! He also told me that he spent the past 8 years working and living at Findhorn up in Scotland and recently made Dunblaine his base which has easier access for traveling back and forth to the Camino. I felt so uplifted by meeting him. His Scottish accent, his sparkling eyes, the kilt, and his radiance touched me very deeply. I felt as though I met my Celtic Angel as I entered into this new phase of the Celtic Camino. I stepped deeply into the unknown today and I met a Celtic Angel. We hugged, and kissed check to check back and forth and we both just laughed. Such a chance encounter and such a blessing. The Camino continually guides and provides, every step of the way.
We are at a lovely albergue on the western edge of town. Our laundry is being cleaned and dried for us for €5, we are showered, and tonight I am looking forward to putting my feet up, reading and writing and falling asleep. They have breakfast here for us so we will start the day with a simple, and delicious meal, and be on our way to Pontferrada and beyond.
Buen Camino!
Suseya,
Sarah
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